Posts in Good People
Day 49 Mississippi River
Day 49 Mississippi River

The morning sky was painted with a blanket of dark grey clouds. The forecast called for rain and wind today, and based off the cool air and uninviting cloud cover it looked as though the prediction was spot on.

After a quick breakfast I broke camp and hit the water at a decent hour. Much of the morning consisted of on and off again rain showers. By noon the rain fell consistently, with a fair headwind chipping in as well. In my rain jacket, pants and boots I continued to paddle, and by mid afternoon arrived at lock 16, just above Muscatine, IA. As I entered the chamber I asked the Lock master if there was a good place in town to stop and dry off at. He recommend the Mississippi Brewing Company, and with that I heeded his advice.

As the wind picked up and the rain rolled on I ferried across the river to the local marina. Pulling up to a public dock, I unloaded the boat and lifted the empty canoe up onto the floating walkway. A short jaunt across a railroad track and down a few blocks of downtown Muscatine put me outside the neon lights of the Mississippi Brewing Co.

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Good People, Iowa, Storms, Hard times, Mississippi StoriesWill CollinsMuscatineComment
Day 48 Mississippi River
Day 48 Mississippi River

As I came to in the morning, I stuck my head out of the tent. A massive barge was parked just off shore from my camp waiting to enter the nearby lock. As I made oatmeal and coffee the engine fired up and a blow horn from the the lock signaled the all clear for the barge to enter. Shortly after hitting the water toward the Quad Cities I received a message from an old family friend, Ben L. I had forgotten that Ben lived in the Quad Cities, and he reached out, asking if I was available to grab dinner that evening. Being that it was still mid morning and East Moline was a short distance away, I told him that sadly dinner wouldn't work, as I would be cruising through town shortly. Luckily, Ben was able to get away for lunch, so we made plans to meet for a quick bite.

I paddled to a public boat launch and met Ben around 11:30am. He helped me to unload the boat, and we stashed the gear and canoe on a nearby dock. It had been years since I'd seen Ben, and it was great to catch up. He had stayed with my family for a time when I was in high school and he was working his first job as a psychologist at DeKalb High.

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Good People, Illinois, IowaWill CollinsDavenport, Quad Cities, East MolineComment
Day 47 Mississippi River
Day 47 Mississippi River

After a great night spent with my cousins, I woke up with plans of meeting them for breakfast. Sandy and I drove to the Mississippi Cafe in Albany, IL to meet them. A delicious meal of ham and eggs filled me up, as did talk around the table.

After the meal Katie, Bart and the boys headed back home toward Genoa, IL. Sandy and I drove across the river to Clinton, IA to hit the nearest grocery store. I stocked up on food for the coming days.

We drove the 20 or so minutes back to Sandy's and began packing up the gear I had set out to dry, refilling my water bottles and loading the boat. With the sun shining for the first time in 3 days it was almost as if it was meant to be that I had taken the weekend off with Sandy and family and was set to hit the river once again. I gave a heartfelt thank you to Sandy for her extreme generosity in hosting both me and my family, and pushed off from shore. Sandy stood on the raised bank, waving as I coasted away. A few doors down I recognized one of the gentlemen who had throw his wife the 60th birthday party. He waved and gave me a shout - I returned it with a "Thanks for having me to the party!!".

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Illinois, Iowa, Good PeopleWill CollinsQuad Cities, Albany, ClintonComment
Day 46 Mississippi River
Day 46 Mississippi River

After a late morning of sleeping in I walked next door to Sandy's house for breakfast. Today would be an off day on the river. My parents planned to come and visit in the morning, while my cousins planned to drive out in the early evening and stay the night.

After several cups of coffee my Mom and Dad arrived at Sandy's place mid morning. The four of us sat around the table and talked while taking in the view of the river. Rain, wind and cloud cover dominated the area, making my day off seem even more satisfying. After sharing conversations and watching College Game (where my brother was seen on TV waving a Colorado Buffs flag outside of his hometown of Dallas, TX), my parents and I set out to grab lunch and check out the river town of Le Claire, IA.

The downtown area of Le Claire was full of activity on this Saturday, despite the light rain sprinkling on and off again. We walked the street, popping into shops here and there and grabbing lunch at the Blue Iguana, a local Mexican joint. We also stopped by American Archeology, home of the TV show "American Pickers". Being as none of us had seen the show, other patrons seemed much more enthusiastic about the shop, taking pictures with the sign and buying souvenirs to prove they had been.

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Good People, Illinois, IowaWill CollinsLe Claire, CordovaComment
Day 45 Mississippi River
Day 45 Mississippi River

I woke up to a thick cloud covered sky. The plan for the day was to paddle and camp a few miles above Cordova, IL. My Aunt had put me in contact with Sandy G. who lived in Cordova and had offered to put me up tomorrow evening.

After a quick breakfast I pushed off from my sandbar and started my way South. The forecast called for thunderstorms and wind for much of the next two days. As I paddled the low hanging clouds brought a fine mist. Enough to warrant rain gear, but thankfully not enough to completely soak me.

After a few hours on the water I realized I was closer to Cordova than originally anticipated. I gave Sandy a call and told her of my location. Turns out I was only about a half hour or so away from her place. She told me how to locate her house, just after mile marker 508.3. Look for the wooden structure on river right with a flagpole flying an American and Illinois Flag.

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Good People, IllinoisWill CollinsCordovaComment
Day 44 Mississippi River
Day 44 Mississippi River

After waking up at the house in Sabula, IA, Lisa and Sue said their goodbyes and took off early. My mom, sister and I decided to hit the one restaurant on the island, the sandbar grill. Like much of Sabula, the building looked as though it had seen better days. We had been told however, that the food was great.

After ordering and enjoying French toast, hash browns, bacon and coffee we got talking with the only other patron in the place. The older fellow had grown up in Sabula and had a memory sharp as a tack, telling us the names of family's that's used to live in particular houses, and stories about his interactions with them as a kid. He also mentioned how buzzing Sabula used to be. 4 gas stations, 2 grocery stores and even a bakery. Today all of that was gone other than 1 gas station. I asked the fellow what caused the fall and he mentioned something I had never thought of before. Route 64 runs from Chicago right through Sabula. When interstate 80 was built folks from the city no longer passed through town. Traffic, and therefore business, now bypassed Sabula.

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Iowa, Good PeopleWill CollinsSabula, ClintonComment
Day 43 Mississippi River - Sabula, IA - Iowa's only Island City
Day 43 Mississippi River - Sabula, IA - Iowa's only Island City

Sabula, IA - Iowa's only Island City

I woke up on the sandy bank of an Island across the river near Bellevue, IA. I had stumbled upon the site the night before, after going through Lock and Dam 12 at dusk. As I pulled out of the lock, a barge was waiting on downriver side. With my headlamp showing a small red light, I exited the lock and paddled directly next to the waiting barge. On my Marine radio I heard the Lock Master call to the towboat.

"Captain, just wanted to give you a heads up we have a real tiny canoe leaving the lock"

The captain radioed back "yup- I can see his tiny little red light"

Relived that my head lamp actually provided a small safety net, I cruised by the massive barge and began looking for camp. I found the sandy bank by accident when I literally almost ran into it. It was a pleasant surprise being that it was dark and getting late.

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Iowa, Good PeopleWill CollinsBellevue, SabulaComment
Day 38 Mississippi River
Day 38 Mississippi River

After waking up in Pikes Peak campground, Peter and I packed up his blue Chevy Colorado and drove around the corner to a lookout area from atop the Iowa Bluffs. As we peered out from the stone outcropping, the Mississippi River Valley stretched the horizon. A blue sky and gorgeous sun greeted us. Across the water on the opposite shore Wisconsin's namesake river meandered into the Miss, draining much of the States watershed into the valley. Upriver we could see Praire Du Chien, WI. Down river the trees and winding path of the Miss looked inviting. 
After talking and snapping a few photos we walked back to the truck and descended down the bluffs back to the valley floor.

We made a stop at Huckleberry's family restaurant for breakfast. A fitting name for a restaurant on the banks of the Mississippi. After grub and a few more stops along the river the two of us drove back upstream toward where Peter had originally picked me up. We unloaded all the gear from the truck, and with Petes help repacked the boat. With that Peter headed out with plans of driving south to Illinois for the weekend.

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Good People, Wisconsin, IowaWill CollinsPraire Du ChienComment
Day 37 Mississippi River
Day 37 Mississippi River

I popped my head out of the tent first thing in the morning to find a cloud engulfing the river. Thick fog had socked in camp, and hung around so low and dense that seeing the opposite shore wasn't an option, let alone around the next bend. Knowing that the mid morning sun would eventually burn off the haze, I enjoyed a slow AM that gave way to reading, knocking out a few posts, and a few cups of Joe.

With the Iowa/Minnesota border a mile or so down river I was soaking up my last breaths of Minnesota air. 36 days spent canoeing this great state. From the trickling headwaters at Lake Itasca, filled with swampland and waterfowl, to the swimming black bear near Grand Rapids, the turning tree tops of Brainerd, the city skyline of Minneapolis and St. Paul, the towering bluffs of the driftless, hundreds if not thousands of bald eagles, deer, beaver, and of course the amazing people. On a few occasions I heard folks toss around the phrase "Minnesota Nice", which is what I've come to realize as the norther equivalent of "Souther Hospitality". The past 36 days have proved to me that Minnesota Nice is more than a saying or a slogan. It's a northern way of life. And I'm damn thankful to have been able to experience it in its truest form- via canoe on the Mighty Mississippi.

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Wisconsin, Minnesota, Iowa, Good People, VideoWill CollinsPraire Du ChienComment
Day 36 Mississippi River
Day 36 Mississippi River

I woke up in Johns upstairs bedroom at 7am. I walked down to coffee, oatmeal and the apple cobbler I had missed the night before due to my early bedtime. With a bowl of cereal (fresh milk..hmmm), yogurt and cobbler John and I prepared to make a run back to the Marina and send me down river. Before we left, John gave me one of his 2 gallon collapse water containers. The night before we had talked about my limited water storage. Awesome.

As we got to the marina, John helped load my boat. Just as I was pushing off, a older gentlemen with a cup of coffee and gray ponytail walked up the dock near me.

"Where ya headed?"

"The plan is the Gulf of Mexico!"

The guy paused a moment.

"1978. My buddy and I paddled the river from Itasca with plans of hitting the Gulf. We had both flunked out of college and did the trip as a vision quest to try and figure out our lives"

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Minnesota, Wisconsin, Good PeopleWill CollinsLa CrosseComment
Day 34 Mississippi River
Day 34 Mississippi River

After another solid nights sleep at Marty's I woke up early to see Marty and Finn off to work and school. The amazing weekend had come to an end. As Marty gathered his things Finn and I quietly watched TV.

At 7:00am I said goodbye to Finn, and he walked out the front door to catch his bus at 7:15. Shorty after I gave my many thanks to Marty for hosting me, showing me Winnona, feeding me, and so much more. He mentioned that he got a kick out of hosting me, and I certainly got a kick out of hanging around for the weekend!

With Marty off to work I began organizing my gear. I intended to leave a few items with him that I seldom used and had been weighing me down thus far on the journey. In the end, I left an old guitar, picks and strings, a book "Entrepreneur Life", and some fire tending gloves I had yet to use. I also planned to leave my old canoe with Marty and Finn. Figuring that it made sense to get the new Wennonah, especially considering the way it came about, I told Marty that he could have the Old Town on a long term loan. My only stipulation was that he and Finn would have to go out on at least one overnight trip in it within a year from today.

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Good People, MinnesotaWill CollinsWinnonaComment
Day 32 Mississippi River
Day 32 Mississippi River

After getting a great nights sleep in a warm bed with real pillows I woke up around 7am and walked upstairs to a full pot of coffee. After settling into the morning the first stop was a local favorite, Bloedow's doughnut shop. Finn, Marty's son, loved the place, and as any 8 year old can attest, didn't get to go there enough. Waiting in a line that stretched out the door we stood in front of a few hunters in full camo and face paint, fresh off the water from opening day of duck season.

With 6 donuts for 3 guys, Marty, Finn and I headed for Garvin Heights Lookout, a popular hiking trail and overlook of the city. The view from atop the bluff put the main channel, the back waters, and the town of Winnona all in clear view. Standing at the edge, we took in the landscape, scarfing down donuts and pointing out buildings and landmarks from above.

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Minnesota, Good PeopleWill CollinsWinnonaComment
Day 31 Mississippi River - Boats, bluegrass, friends and a great time.
Day 31 Mississippi River - Boats, bluegrass, friends and a great time.

Boats, bluegrass, friends and a great time.

After stopping 20 miles short of Winona, MN the night before I woke up with the goal of taking a load off in the Minnesota river town for the weekend. Jeff from Toronto, a fellow through paddler whom I had run into early in the trip near Bemidji, MN had tipped me off that the annual bluegrass festival "Boats & Bluegrass" was happening this weekend. Loving both boats and bluegrass, it was an obvious stopping point.

After a tough full days paddle I neared Winona around sunset. Paddling the back channels of the river for some time I spotted a group of canoe and kayakers out for what looked like a leisurely stroll. Worn out and a bit unsure of my exact location I paddled near the group and asked how far to Winnona. A pair in a green Wenonah canoe pointed me to the group leader and local Ranger. He informed me that Winnona was in fact just around the corner, and to make it to the festival I just needed to follow the stock dam to shore on river right. Perfect. As I left he called the group to an island bank and began a speech on the hundreds of Pelicans nearby (he was leading a local "bird paddle" where folks take out boats, paddle around the back channels of the Miss look for the abundant bird populations).

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Minnesota, Good PeopleWill CollinsWinnona Comment
Day 29 Mississippi River
Day 29 Mississippi River

I woke up at a decent hour and realized right away that I had missed the thunderstorm projected to roll through in the early morning. All of my gear was still dry. Nice.

I quickly packed up the boat and made a hearty breakfast of 3 packets of oatmeal- 2 brow sugar and 1 apple cinnamon. The weather forecast the night before predicted cloudy skies and a 10-15 mph head wind throughout the day. Enough to create fair sized swells on the large Lake Pepin and make life tough. With that in mind I figured and early morning start may get me at least a bit of calm water.

I pushed the boat in around 8am and paddle a few miles to the mouth of Lake Pepin. At around 20 miles long, Pepin was nothing to shake a stick at.

Just before reaching the start of the lake I noticed a green canoe on a sandy beach river right. Instantly I knew who it was. Max. We had split up 2 days prior after spending 6(?) days together on and off earlier

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Minnesota, Good PeopleWill CollinsReads LandingComment
Day 26 Mississippi River - Nicollet Island, Minneapolis
Day 26 Mississippi River - Nicollet Island, Minneapolis

After a long night with the Andrews sleeping in on a real bed felt great (first time this trip not in the tent or hammock). I woke up and hopped in the shower as both Andrew D. and Max knocked off the cobwebs. With Andrew C. off to work the three of us made a run into target for some supplies and food to make breakfast.

Once back we all chipped in on a delicious meal- egg scramble with onion and red pepper and yogurt topped with fresh strawberries.

Max and I packed up our gear and loaded up Andrew D's car. The plan was to drive us past the mile and a half portage at St. Anthony's dam. We also needed to swing by the local gear shop to grab a few things. With Andrews blue Subaru loaded to the brim with gear and 2 canoes on top we hit the road.

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Minnesota, Minneapolis, Good PeopleWill CollinsComment
Day 25 Mississippi River - The Andrews of Nicollet Island
Day 25 Mississippi River - The Andrews of Nicollet Island

After a late night of paddling, relaxing and a few midnight casts of the fishing rod Max and I rose early to break camp and get around our first portage, Coon Rapids Dam. We had stayed just 100 yards from the dam, meaning the portage was the first action of the day.

Making light work of the dam, we sat and made breakfast and coffee on the downstream side, sweaty and dreading the next and final portage of the trip.

Boats hit the water after grub and we worked our way toward the first legitimate city of the voyage, Minneapolis, Mn.

For me Minneapolis marked a special moment. It signifies the end of the Minnesota wilderness (and nearly the end of the largest of 10 states along the Miss), and ushers in the industrious side of the river that many of us associate with the Mississippi.

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Minnesota, Good People, MinneapolisWill CollinsComment
Day 24 Mississippi River
Day 24 Mississippi River

A day for the books.

Things started off with a relatively slow moving morning. A cup of coffee, some reading and relaxing. The plan was to swing by Kris and Toms place just upstream of Elk River, Mn. Kris had reached out via Facebook and offered to make us breakfast once we stop.

After packing up the boats we set our sights on Kris and Toms. It was a short one hour paddle from camp. We pulled up to the place around 10am. Kris' description made it easy to find (just after Otsego park, where the forest turns to bluff). Tom was sitting on a riverside bench in a black tshirt and gray beard, camera in hand. He snapped a few photos as we paddled into the landing.

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Minnesota, Good PeopleWill CollinsComment
Day 16 Mississippi River
Day 16 Mississippi River

A great day with good folk. Rest and a jacuzzi.

The day began with a hot cup of coffee, oatmeal and buttered toast courtesy of Dan and Deb, my new friends from Aiktin, MN. The plan for the day consisted of checking in with my classrooms, making a run into town with Dan and trying to get on the water by early afternoon.

At 9:15 I had my first video chat with a room full of South Dakota 4th graders. I gave them a quick recap of how the trip has progressed, told them a few stories including the swimming bear, and took questions. It's exciting for me to see the intrigue and enthusiasm the kids have.

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Minnesota, Good PeopleWill Collins Comment
Day 15 Mississippi River
Day 15 Mississippi River

Today was a long and worthwhile day. I woke up to a mist covered campsite around 7AM, knowing I had a full day ahead (I've tried getting up before 7, but find it damn hard to roll out of bed, put on a headlamp and extra layers while everything is still dark and cold before sunrise). The goal was to make it 13.1 miles down stream of Palisade, MN (pop 167) making for a 35 mile day. A wonderful woman had found me on Facebook, and as she does for all through paddlers, offered to put me up at her place.

After a quick call with grandma to start the morning I hit the water full steam ahead. It was a beautiful fall day, with the sun poking in and out from behind a sheet of clouds.

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Minnesota, Good PeopleWill CollinsAikin, PalisadeComment
Day 11 Mississippi River
Day 11 Mississippi River

Once again, another great day on the river. Once again, people are good.

I woke up this morning to some commotion at the small pubic boat ramp I was camped at. The sound of metal scraping against concrete alerted me that it was time to get moving. After packing up my sleeping bag, pad and clothes in the tent, I got up and out to meet two older gentlemen smoking and chewing on long cigars at 7am.

While talking with the fellas I learned that they were out this morning to harvest wild rice. The banks of the river had been filled with the wetland plant since I put in at Lake Itasca. I didn't realize until now that it was indeed wild rice I had been fighting for much of the trip so far. I asked the guys about the process of harvesting and curing the rice, and I'll be damned, it's quite the undertaking.

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Minnesota, Good PeopleWill CollinsComment