Posts in Minnesota
Day 37 Mississippi River

I popped my head out of the tent first thing in the morning to find a cloud engulfing the river. Thick fog had socked in camp, and hung around so low and dense that seeing the opposite shore wasn't an option, let alone around the next bend. Knowing that the mid morning sun would eventually burn off the haze, I enjoyed a slow AM that gave way to reading, knocking out a few posts, and a few cups of Joe.

With the Iowa/Minnesota border a mile or so down river I was soaking up my last breaths of Minnesota air. 36 days spent canoeing this great state. From the trickling headwaters at Lake Itasca, filled with swampland and waterfowl, to the swimming black bear near Grand Rapids, the turning tree tops of Brainerd, the city skyline of Minneapolis and St. Paul, the towering bluffs of the driftless, hundreds if not thousands of bald eagles, deer, beaver, and of course the amazing people. On a few occasions I heard folks toss around the phrase "Minnesota Nice", which is what I've come to realize as the norther equivalent of "Souther Hospitality". The past 36 days have proved to me that Minnesota Nice is more than a saying or a slogan. It's a northern way of life. And I'm damn thankful to have been able to experience it in its truest form- via canoe on the Mighty Mississippi.

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Day 36 Mississippi River

I woke up in Johns upstairs bedroom at 7am. I walked down to coffee, oatmeal and the apple cobbler I had missed the night before due to my early bedtime. With a bowl of cereal (fresh milk..hmmm), yogurt and cobbler John and I prepared to make a run back to the Marina and send me down river. Before we left, John gave me one of his 2 gallon collapse water containers. The night before we had talked about my limited water storage. Awesome.

As we got to the marina, John helped load my boat. Just as I was pushing off, a older gentlemen with a cup of coffee and gray ponytail walked up the dock near me.

"Where ya headed?"

"The plan is the Gulf of Mexico!"

The guy paused a moment.

"1978. My buddy and I paddled the river from Itasca with plans of hitting the Gulf. We had both flunked out of college and did the trip as a vision quest to try and figure out our lives"

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Day 34 Mississippi River

After another solid nights sleep at Marty's I woke up early to see Marty and Finn off to work and school. The amazing weekend had come to an end. As Marty gathered his things Finn and I quietly watched TV.

At 7:00am I said goodbye to Finn, and he walked out the front door to catch his bus at 7:15. Shorty after I gave my many thanks to Marty for hosting me, showing me Winnona, feeding me, and so much more. He mentioned that he got a kick out of hosting me, and I certainly got a kick out of hanging around for the weekend!

With Marty off to work I began organizing my gear. I intended to leave a few items with him that I seldom used and had been weighing me down thus far on the journey. In the end, I left an old guitar, picks and strings, a book "Entrepreneur Life", and some fire tending gloves I had yet to use. I also planned to leave my old canoe with Marty and Finn. Figuring that it made sense to get the new Wennonah, especially considering the way it came about, I told Marty that he could have the Old Town on a long term loan. My only stipulation was that he and Finn would have to go out on at least one overnight trip in it within a year from today.

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Day 32 Mississippi River

After getting a great nights sleep in a warm bed with real pillows I woke up around 7am and walked upstairs to a full pot of coffee. After settling into the morning the first stop was a local favorite, Bloedow's doughnut shop. Finn, Marty's son, loved the place, and as any 8 year old can attest, didn't get to go there enough. Waiting in a line that stretched out the door we stood in front of a few hunters in full camo and face paint, fresh off the water from opening day of duck season.

With 6 donuts for 3 guys, Marty, Finn and I headed for Garvin Heights Lookout, a popular hiking trail and overlook of the city. The view from atop the bluff put the main channel, the back waters, and the town of Winnona all in clear view. Standing at the edge, we took in the landscape, scarfing down donuts and pointing out buildings and landmarks from above.

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Day 31 Mississippi River - Boats, bluegrass, friends and a great time.

Boats, bluegrass, friends and a great time.

After stopping 20 miles short of Winona, MN the night before I woke up with the goal of taking a load off in the Minnesota river town for the weekend. Jeff from Toronto, a fellow through paddler whom I had run into early in the trip near Bemidji, MN had tipped me off that the annual bluegrass festival "Boats & Bluegrass" was happening this weekend. Loving both boats and bluegrass, it was an obvious stopping point.

After a tough full days paddle I neared Winona around sunset. Paddling the back channels of the river for some time I spotted a group of canoe and kayakers out for what looked like a leisurely stroll. Worn out and a bit unsure of my exact location I paddled near the group and asked how far to Winnona. A pair in a green Wenonah canoe pointed me to the group leader and local Ranger. He informed me that Winnona was in fact just around the corner, and to make it to the festival I just needed to follow the stock dam to shore on river right. Perfect. As I left he called the group to an island bank and began a speech on the hundreds of Pelicans nearby (he was leading a local "bird paddle" where folks take out boats, paddle around the back channels of the Miss look for the abundant bird populations).

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Day 30 Mississippi River

After a later than normal night watching the sky put on a shown in form of heat lightning and shooting stars the morning took a slower start. I took the dew covered rainfly off my tent and set it aside to dry in the sun. Even this early in the AM it was clear today was gonna be a hot one.

I had two calls lined up to my Illinois classrooms at 9:30 and 10:15. Both went well. Once again with the kids were full of energy and asking all kinds of questions. I even got the "don't you have a wife and kids at home?" question. Lol!

While on the phone with the kiddos Max pushed off and hit the river. After wrapping up my calls I loaded the boat and got on the water around 11:30 or so. The plan was to make a food resupply stop 3 miles down river in Wabasha, Mn as all the food I had left was a can of chili and chicken noodle soup.

I pulled up to a public park and dragged the boat onto the sand. Grabbing my skateboard and backpack I ran into the nearest grocery store, a quick 10 minute skate from the river.

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Day 29 Mississippi River

I woke up at a decent hour and realized right away that I had missed the thunderstorm projected to roll through in the early morning. All of my gear was still dry. Nice.

I quickly packed up the boat and made a hearty breakfast of 3 packets of oatmeal- 2 brow sugar and 1 apple cinnamon. The weather forecast the night before predicted cloudy skies and a 10-15 mph head wind throughout the day. Enough to create fair sized swells on the large Lake Pepin and make life tough. With that in mind I figured and early morning start may get me at least a bit of calm water.

I pushed the boat in around 8am and paddle a few miles to the mouth of Lake Pepin. At around 20 miles long, Pepin was nothing to shake a stick at.

Just before reaching the start of the lake I noticed a green canoe on a sandy beach river right. Instantly I knew who it was. Max. We had split up 2 days prior after spending 6(?) days together on and off earlier

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Day 28 Mississippi River

After packing up the tent in the morning I decided to scoot into town to try and find some food and/or a new paddle.

Prescott, Wisconsin was just around the bend and I figure I would try my hand at finding a sporting goods store for a canoe paddle (first stop on Wisconsin! Woohoo!) I started the search by stopping in The Twisted Oak Coffee House just a block off the river. With a warm cup of Joe and blueberry scone I studied maps of the upcoming stretch of river, charged up my backup battery pack and busted out a journal entry.

The barista, a young fellow likely in his early 20s, informed me that there were no sporting goods stores in town. Closest place would be up river to Hastings (obviously not an option for me) or down river towards Red Wing, Mn.

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Day 27 Mississippi River

A solid nights sleep in the hammock made for an early morning. Without the cover of a rain fly (which I use on my tent and acts like a roof, blocking out sun and the outside world) I typically wake up with the sunrise when hammocking and today was no exception. Toss in the planes taking off from the St. Paul Airport runway directly across the river and I was up and at it fairly early. I made a cup of coffee and packed up my sleeping arraignment as well as some miscellaneous gear. For the past 6 days Max and I have traveled together. It's an interesting dynamic. We both enjoy each others company and had a great time hanging out and meeting folks along the river. I think we both learned a good deal from one another, and we certainly had good times. Definitely had good times. We are also pretty similar in a lot of ways, including the enjoyment of independence and traveling solo. With that in mind, Max pushed off around 8:30. I sure hope to run into him again down river or on another adventure, or even pay a visit to his abode in Chicago.

As Max paddled away down river I hopped on the phone and had another great interview with my friends and colleagues at 950 KWAT radio in Watertown, SD. I told stories, many surrounding the folks I had met along the way thus far.

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Day 26 Mississippi River - Nicollet Island, Minneapolis

After a long night with the Andrews sleeping in on a real bed felt great (first time this trip not in the tent or hammock). I woke up and hopped in the shower as both Andrew D. and Max knocked off the cobwebs. With Andrew C. off to work the three of us made a run into target for some supplies and food to make breakfast.

Once back we all chipped in on a delicious meal- egg scramble with onion and red pepper and yogurt topped with fresh strawberries.

Max and I packed up our gear and loaded up Andrew D's car. The plan was to drive us past the mile and a half portage at St. Anthony's dam. We also needed to swing by the local gear shop to grab a few things. With Andrews blue Subaru loaded to the brim with gear and 2 canoes on top we hit the road.

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Day 25 Mississippi River - The Andrews of Nicollet Island

After a late night of paddling, relaxing and a few midnight casts of the fishing rod Max and I rose early to break camp and get around our first portage, Coon Rapids Dam. We had stayed just 100 yards from the dam, meaning the portage was the first action of the day.

Making light work of the dam, we sat and made breakfast and coffee on the downstream side, sweaty and dreading the next and final portage of the trip.

Boats hit the water after grub and we worked our way toward the first legitimate city of the voyage, Minneapolis, Mn.

For me Minneapolis marked a special moment. It signifies the end of the Minnesota wilderness (and nearly the end of the largest of 10 states along the Miss), and ushers in the industrious side of the river that many of us associate with the Mississippi.

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Day 24 Mississippi River

A day for the books.

Things started off with a relatively slow moving morning. A cup of coffee, some reading and relaxing. The plan was to swing by Kris and Toms place just upstream of Elk River, Mn. Kris had reached out via Facebook and offered to make us breakfast once we stop.

After packing up the boats we set our sights on Kris and Toms. It was a short one hour paddle from camp. We pulled up to the place around 10am. Kris' description made it easy to find (just after Otsego park, where the forest turns to bluff). Tom was sitting on a riverside bench in a black tshirt and gray beard, camera in hand. He snapped a few photos as we paddled into the landing.

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Day 23 Mississippi River

9/14/17 - St. Cloud, MN area

Following a long night of campfire stories and jokes a late morning was in store. I slept in until about 8 or 8:30. The forecast called for another perfect day, sunny and a high of 86.

I took off the rain fly on my tent and laid it on the ground for the rising sun to dry. A hot cup of coffee on the river bank made the perfect scene to bust out a few journal entries I had been putting off.

At 10:30 I was scheduled to video chat with my 6th grade class in Northern, Illinois. Once again, the discussion was great. I told a few stories of my recent adventures and took about 20 minutes of questions from the students. I've been working with all my classes for several weeks at this point, and somehow, none of the kids had asked the "bathroom" question. That was until today. A lot of laughs and whispering to friends when I told them about digging holes...lol!

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Day 22 Mississippi River

I woke up this morning to a wet tent floor. The water from the sand bar had seeped up and my sleeping pad paid the price. I heard Max rustling around before he spoke out.

"What's up! You get wet?"

"Just the sleeping pad and tent floor. I'm dry. You?"

"Same"

After hearing Max exit his tent..."Uhh we got bigger problems. My boat is gone"

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Day 20 Mississippi River

Around 6:30AM I first came to. I use that phrase rather than waking up, as I didn't feel like I truly ever feel asleep. Between a hammock that will never lie flat (it always rests in more of a "U" shape), a warm night, mosquitos and a few bouts of sprinkles, l had what felt like my worst night of sleep thus far. Yet for whatever reason, when I decided to break down the hammock and pack away my sleeping gear I felt great. The sun rise burned the haze from the sky as the forecast called for a warm one.

I packed up gear, picked up my skateboard, backpack and water bottles with plans of a water and possible map resupply before hitting the river. A large Minnesota Department of natural resources (DNR) office was located just off the river in Brainerd. The idea was to skate to the office, which opened at 8AM, and hopefully pick up a few missing maps. The MN DNR prints 9 maps that show the entirety of the Mississippi through Minneapolis. I had copies of maps 1-4, and map 6, with the rest missing in action. As I skated to the office I swing by a gas station to refill water (2 empty juice bottles 64OZ a piece and a Nalgene) and grab a cup of coffee. I showed up to the DNR office just before 8. Come to find out, it was more of a compound than store or visitor center. They did, however, have a large display in the front entrance with dozens of free maps. Of course, the only maps missing were the ones I needed.

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Day 19 Mississippi River

This morning I woke with hopes of passing through Brained, MN by days end. The stretch paddled today consisted of several long, stringy lakes stretched together.

The first thing I noticed in the AM were the amount of fishing boats on the water. I figured a tournament must be underway, based off of the high dollar boats I'd already seen. After packing up and hitting the water at a reasonable time I spoke with a few of the fisherman who confirmed my suspicion- there was indeed a bass tourney going on. 5 fish per boat would be weighed, meaning the top 5 heaviest fish would take first.

To me, there seems to be an inverse relationship between the cost of a boat and the amount of time it sees on the water. The silver beaters with a 25HP motor that hard starts and has to be loved just right to fire off seem to get more water time than the $80,000 suped up bad boy that sits in the storage unit unless it's tournament time, Labor Day or the 4th of July. Just an observation of an angler.

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Day 18 Mississippi River

(9-9-17)

I woke up this morning knowing it would be a slower AM, as I had to catch up on some of my journal entries that I had pushed off for the past few days. While I know that they need to be done, like anything, the process takes time. And when you are looking at a map of 2,300 miles and you've only paddled 300 or so in 18 days, it can be tough not to ditch everything and try to make as many miles as possible. I often have to convince myself to slowdown and enjoy the process. Not only does it seem that folks are enjoying reading these updates, but I know that I too will enjoy reading them several years down the line when reminiscing about that "crazy adventure" I took when I was 25. Even with all that said it can still be tough to convince myself to sit still and take the time to bust out a post after 11 hours padding, breaking down and setting up camp in a new location, cooking and cleaning and all the other daily routines that keep life on the river afloat. Still, I know I need to do them as the benefit will pay off down the line...so I do.

After knocking two updates out and grubbing some oatmeal and coffee I loaded the boat and began working toward Brained, MN. Today the paddling was easy, not because of the wind or the weather or a strong current, but because of football. Specifically, Colorado football.

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Day 17 Mississippi River

I rose around 7AM with the goal of being on the water around 8:30. With a full days rest, several home cooked meals and a few hot tub sessions under my belt I was ready to get after it.

Once again, Don and Deb had oatmeal with butter and sugar, buttered toast and coffee waiting for me. Awesome. I packed up the boat and was getting ready to take off when Don trotted down to the river bank with a yellow shopping bag in hand - "can't forget your cookie dough!" He had packaged me a bag full of Aunt Edmoes famous cookie dough (the eggless version) on ice and wrapped in several zip locks. Armed with enough sugar to take down a Rhino I hit the water at 8:45 with Don and Deb both video taping via phones my departure.

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Day 16 Mississippi River

A great day with good folk. Rest and a jacuzzi.

The day began with a hot cup of coffee, oatmeal and buttered toast courtesy of Dan and Deb, my new friends from Aiktin, MN. The plan for the day consisted of checking in with my classrooms, making a run into town with Dan and trying to get on the water by early afternoon.

At 9:15 I had my first video chat with a room full of South Dakota 4th graders. I gave them a quick recap of how the trip has progressed, told them a few stories including the swimming bear, and took questions. It's exciting for me to see the intrigue and enthusiasm the kids have.

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Day 15 Mississippi River

Today was a long and worthwhile day. I woke up to a mist covered campsite around 7AM, knowing I had a full day ahead (I've tried getting up before 7, but find it damn hard to roll out of bed, put on a headlamp and extra layers while everything is still dark and cold before sunrise). The goal was to make it 13.1 miles down stream of Palisade, MN (pop 167) making for a 35 mile day. A wonderful woman had found me on Facebook, and as she does for all through paddlers, offered to put me up at her place.

After a quick call with grandma to start the morning I hit the water full steam ahead. It was a beautiful fall day, with the sun poking in and out from behind a sheet of clouds.

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