Day 72 Mississippi River

Wind, big waves and a cloud covered sky. A challenging day on the river makes for a rewarding evening camped on the shore. Struggle is the process of growth.

In the afternoon the persistent headwind picked up force. With waves whipping in the main channel a few feet high I stuck to the shore line in hopes of mitigating my exposure to the open water. Large rock dams built horizontal to the rivers current stretch from one shore out into the main channel. Wing dams, as they are called, were constructed in the early days of commercial traffic on the Miss in hopes of forcing more water into the main channel, with the idea being more water means more depth and easier transport for large steamboats.

Navigating the Wing dams in my canoe, however, is almost always interesting and/or challenging. The dams create odd currents and standing waves that form at an angle and can be tricky to navigate.

The Wing dams and strengthening wind had finally forced my hand. Around 2pm I pulled off the river, finding wind shelter tucked behind a structure. After an hour or so of waiting for a break, I hopped back in the boat and worked a short distance to Caruthersville, MO, a town of about 6,000 folk.

As I pulled up to the town launch ramp I noticed a boat in the distance coming into shore. I busted out binoculars to have a look. Not being able to make out what the craft was, I began unloading my gear. A short time later, a floating raft, homemade with eight 55 gallon drums ratchet strapped to four wooden pallets and a old 15hp Evinrude motor mounted off the back, docked up. It was by far the most homely and also amazing vessel I have seen on the river yet. The three occupants of the raft were travelers from Australia. The crew was in the midst of making a documentary film analyzing the current American culture and political climate through the lens of Huck Finn. I have to admit, they hit the nail on the head for the Huck Finn raft!

After catching up about both our journeys the Aussies ran into town and I set up camp in a grassy knoll near the boat ramp.

Tough wind, funny encounter and an epic raft. Good times on the Miss!